Nothing a little duct tape can't fix!

We must be nearing the very end of our trip because we are breaking down, and by that I mean our stuff is all breaking. So far both strollers are broken, but still usable. S's has a rip in the seat fabric and E's snack tray snapped off, both are strollers we purchased specifically for this vacation. My (expensive!) and oh so comfortable shoes, also purchased special for the trip, have broken. The strap is now being held together by duct tape. Our umbrella will no longer stay closed on it's own, and when the Velcro strap slips it pops open at unexpected times, and this morning the strap to my purse broke (which has also been repaired via duct tape). So our stuff might be broken down, but we are all still having a fabulous time!

Yesterday was the last night of our Germany blitz and I can't wait to come back and see more. We have spent the last few nights on the Rhine river, and have been exploring it as well as the adjacent Mosel river valley. It is gorgeous here! Looks like a fairy tale, which is only emphasized by the fact that every tiny town is shadowed by a huge medieval castle. In fact, we were lucky enough to spend 2 nights in a real castle turned hostel. (Also our first ever hostel experience, which was great. We had a private room and bathroom, sparse but very clean. For less than 50 euros per night we had a great room, an unbeilable view and breakfast included.) “Our castle” as S calls it, actual name Burg Stahleck was once the capital of Germany for a few years in the 1200's.

Our time in the river valley has gone so quickly and once again, we are wishing for more time to explore. We spent quite a bit of time in Trier, which has some excellent Roman ruins, including a huge still fully intacted Roman building. It has been in continous use since then, which has perserved it. What was once a thrown room for the emperor is now a protestant basilica. We also saw the Porta Negra gate house, which is a huge fully intact piece of the old Roman wall. In addition Trier is home to the oldest Christan church in Germany. It is also a very cute downtown area with great little cafes and shopping.

We enjoyed a great boat ride down the Rhine, looking at all the cute towns and castle spotting, then we toured Burg Eltz. We ended the evening in a new city (Cologne) and viewed their enormousus gothic cathedralal, so pretty. Cologne is not a pretty town. It was almost completely destroyed during WWII and the buildings were thrown-up quickly. However, the revitalization is underway in a major way, construction is everywhere, and you can tell, this is a town that has money. People dress very well. The taxis are BMW's with full leather seats and luxury upgrades, and store like Gucci and Prada line the streets.

This morning we woke-up and went to Cologne's chocolate museum. S loved it. They had chocolate history, South American chocolate artifacts and a full working display on how to make chocolate, complete with samples. After a quick lunch (gotta love Subway) we drove to Aachen, home to a very old church, one Charlemagne built, around 800. It has been added to over the years, but the original still stands and it's ceilings are filled with gorgeous tile mosaics. It also holds the crypt of Charlemagne, as well as some very important church relics (among them “the” swaddling clothes from Christ), if your into that sort of thing.

We then drove to Amsterdam, and of course there were plenty of issues getting checked-in to our apartment, but finally we are in and all very ready for bed. Had a lovely blitz of Germany, but now we are excited and ready to tackle Amsterdam!

Normandy, Paris and Packing

Phew. It has been a fun, long week. We left for an overnight trip to Normandy, on Monday. The first stop was along the coast to see some of the D-Day areas. We visited Omaha Beach and the American cemetery, as well as Arromanches which is cute little beach town that hosts Port Winston, the artificial harbor that was created by the British and American troops, which made D-Day success possible. We saw the huge German gun bunkers, and the Pointe Du Hoc a cliff side that was heavily bombarded by aerial attacks leaving huge 30ft plus craters along the cliff side. We couldn't have picked a more perfect day to go to the beach. Blue skies, and sunshine. It was so beautiful it was hard to imagine what happened there. Standing on Omaha beach and looking way, way up the huge cliff that had to be scaled, with German troops on top in huge artillery bunkers firing down at you, I'm not sure how the boys (most were 18-23 years olds) got the courage to jump off the boats. As we all know, many people on both sides of the fight and from many countries died on D-day. It was however also the day that the alliance gained a foothold in France and within a year Hitler was dead and the war was over. The day was sobering and heavy and unsurprisingly stirred-up lots of emotions. We are however, so glad we went. It was a great experience and nice to take a minute to remember and silently thank so many who paid such a price defending America and the world from oppression. After all of that we drove to Mont Saint Michel and spent the night on the island.

We awoke to drizzling rain, but got ready and headed-up the hill to the Abby. Had an excellent and very interesting self-guided of the Abby, complete with beautiful views of the bay. For lunch we did a Normandy fest. All of the regional specialties. We had mussels in cream, a super fluffy omelet, lamb feed from grass grown from salt water (gives the meat a unique salty flavor) and Camembert cheese. Oh, and hard apple cider to drink, yum! On the way back to Paris we stopped and saw the Bayou tapestry, which is fabulous.

Back in Paris on Wednesday we went to the Orangerie to see Monet's ultra famous Water Lillis paintings. They are stunning in person. The rooms were designed by Monet himself with huge skylights and the paintings really do seem to change as the sun shifts. Since in was overcast on our visit we really got to experience that as the sky shifted from sunny to dark and then sunny again. Then we walked to the Madeline church and then to the Louvre for an epically long visit trying to soak up as much as possible. Our kids have become little museum experts and do really well. E is generally happy as long as he can see and there are people to smile at him (and he is so cute, really who can resist?!) S knows that if he is good, and asks politely we will usually let him color on the ipad while we look. (We view art, he creates it).

Thursday was a frustrating day. We all slept in a little which was great, then headed out to drive to Giverny, (Monet's home and gardens). A drive that should have taken, about 45 minutes, took 3 hours. Of course neither Gardner or I had eaten (in true French style it was yet another holiday which means our coffee/breakfast place was closed), so we were starving. The place was beyond packed. Drove all over town looking for parking and finally had to create our own spot on the side of a parking lot. Giverny was nice. The gardens were very pretty, but had a natural look to them, in sharp contrast to the the perfectly manicured gardens you see in Paris. By this point it was almost 5, so we just drove back to Paris and went to Montmartre for dinner. Ate at a fantastic little bistro, and had a nice walk around the hill. After dinner as we were strolling down the steps along Sacre Coeur and S said “I really like Paris”. With the lights of Paris just starting to shimmer as the sunset and with the giant white dome above us, it was such a sweet moment, makes me smile to think about it.

As an end of the trip treat, we took the kids back to Disneyland. Bought a hopper pass for both parks this time. I have to say, their second park which is Hollywood themed is not very good. They have a few good “big kid” rides. As a family we only went on 3. S of course, LOVED the CARS rides, which was similar to the tea cups. We also sprang for the very overpriced lunch buffet at Remy's restaurant. Complete with a memorable visit from Remy the rat chef himself. S has watched Rattatouille several times since we have been here and was beyond excited. After lunch we went to the “real” Disneyland park and had a great afternoon and evening of rides and fun. Gardner and I did a fastpass/ babyswap combo to ride Thunder Mountian Railroad. It's longer and cooler than the one in California, we both loved it, just wish we could have rode together. S loved Peter Pan, Dumbo, and Pirates of the Caribbean. E loved the Circus Train and the It's a Small World. A great time was had by all.

Yesterday we packed, and packed, but we finally got it all together and today we loaded it into the (jam-packed) car. Currently we are making our way to Strasbourg, where we will spend the night. Can't wait to see all of those cute little haft timbered houses. The first major portion of our trip is over, and I feel great. I'm proud that we accomplished so much with our children along in tow and I know that we will feel the effects of all the amazing experiences we have had in France for a long while to come. So “au revoir Paris”. We can't wait to come back again to the beautiful City of Lights. But today we are looking ahead to the next 10 days and 3 countries. Get ready Germany, the Landon's are on their way.

Friday, Saturday, and Mother's Day!

Friday we spent in the Champagne region. We saw the Reims cathedral, looks similar to Notre Dame in Paris. It is the church where all of the kings of France have been crowned. Then we had a interesting tour of Moet & Chandon. The kids did great during the tour. It was only us and another American couple (on their honeymoon). The caves were very cool. Hand craved from chalk in the 1700's, Moet & Chandon claim to have been the birthplace of champagne. They are also the makers of Dom Perignon. Dinner was a drag. E was tired and cranky and the food was mediocre at best and way over-priced. But all in all a fantastic day.

Saturday we did chateau-fest. Started the day at Fontainebleau, which is hugely interesting from a historical perspective. After seeing the glorious Versailles my expectations were low that I would be impressed. In fact I was blown away. The chateau was home to many generous of french royalty and has been re-built and added to many times. There was an excellent audio-guide that was interesting and easy to follow, and almost no crowd at all. Plus, unlike Versailles which was ransacked during the revolution, Fontainbleau still has most of it's original furnishings and wallpaper. The chateau is every bit as grand as Versailles in my opinion, although Versailles does have it beat in the gardens. After a lovely visit, during which the kids were excellent, we drove to Vaux le Vicomte, another historic chateau (the one that inspired Louis XIV the build Versailles in the first place). They had golf carts to rent for only 15 euros and we all had a great time driving around the property and seeing the gardens. Both boys got to help daddy drive, they loved it! We had scheduled a dinner the prix fixe restaurant on the property, we were definitely taking a gamble, but since it was the only dinner option in the area we went for it. The kids must have known it was Mother's Day Eve because they were perfect! S was polite, quite, and ate everything. E was just as cute as can be the whole meal. As we were leaving an older American man stopped us, and complemented our children. He said "I couldn't even tell there were kids in the restaurant". A delicious and even slightly romantic (as much so as one can be with your children at the table) meal. After dinner we went into the chateau which had been completely lite by candle light. Gave one such a sense of what it must have been like to live then, plus everything just looks better when lite by a flickering candle. When we came out over 2000 candles had been lite all over the gardens. It was stunning. We all enjoyed a lovely stroll around the gardens. We were having such a nice evening that time got away from us and Gardner looked down to learn it was already, 10:45!! So a very late night out for our kids, but such a nice pleasant day it was worth it.

Today is Mother's Day in America, but not in France. Their Mother's Day is in June. Gardner surprised me with brunch at an American Diner. I have been missing my breakfast like crazy. The food was great and such a nice change. You know the place is good because there is line around the block to get in, full of Americans and French alike. After brunch we went to the Rodin museum, and Napoleon's Tomb which also includes an impressive (if your really into guns and armor) french war museum. Got to skpye with my parents, which was a great end to the day. Tomorrow we are driving to Normandy. We will see the D-Day beaches and Mont-Saint Michelle. Looking forward to a night on the coast.

Happy Mother's Day!

Dordogne and The Eiffel Tower

Phew. We arrived home from the Dordogne late last night. What an great place to vacation. I only wish we had  more time to spend there. I would love to go back someday. The attraction that drew us there were the ancient cave drawings made by cro-magnon man. They are literally the oldest human made-things on earth and they were awesome to see. We of course had to visit the ultra famous Lascaux 2 (an exact reproduction of Lascaux that was created after too many tourist caused significant damage to the drawings). We also went to Font de Gaume where you can see a real original cave. They allow 90 people per day, and only on a guided tour. The kids did great, S managed not to touch anything and thought the whole cave thing was pretty cool. So did we. We aren't talking about a stick sketch here. These are detailed painted animals. Entire herds running around the walls of these caves. The paintings date between 15-17 THOUSAND years old. Amazing.

The Dordogne region has much more to offer than the caves though. It has a rich and long history that includes cliff dwellings that have been inhabited since the cave man up to present day, medieval castles, beautiful landscape with lush green hills, and powerful flowing rivers, and it's a foodies paradise producing all kinds of delicacies. Including: foie gras, truffles, duck, and walnuts. It's a great growing region with excellent local street markets, and lots of yummy restaurants. While there, my family tried a few new foods. S had foie gras for the first time (he wasn't a fan, I'm not really either and yes it was on the kids menu). I tried escargot (much better than I expected and not very chewy at all) and beef heart (I only had a bite of Gardner's). The really great thing about this region, is the food is not only very good, but it's also pretty cheep. Duck confit (one of my personal french favorites) that would cost you at least $30 in California, is fantastic and on every menu for 8-11 euros.

The food in France really is as great as people say. Foods I especially love here are:

- Yogurt (much better than in the US creamer and not as sweet)
- Butter
- Duck
- Mustard
- Cheese (a huge variety all very inexpensive)
- Pastries (I am especially in love with chocolate eclairs)

S would add the donuts. He gets one almost ever morning when Gardner and I get a coffee and a pain au chocolate or a croissant. He claims they are "the best". E eats a mini croissant every day. It's very cute.

Today we spent the afternoon at the Eiffel Tower. All this time here and it was our first, and only, trip to the top. S of course, couldn't let such a fun activity go by unannounced, so while waiting in the very long and very hot (the sun has made it's appearance in Paris and it is HOT and humid) line decided to get some attention by biting his brother. Ugh. Poor E. His punishment was to be buckled into his stroller which he hates, while we waited in line. You should have heard the tantrum. Perhaps you did. That child carried on and on, getting redder and redder as he screamed. I felt so sorry for the people surrounding us in line. That is until, the French Grandma in front of us in line felt the need to direct my parenting efforts by saying "Can't you see he needs your love. He just wants you to love him and hold him. Children need affection and you're just holding the baby."  This is AFTER she witnessed the bite! I responded that he was being punished for biting his brother and that a parent can not back down simply because a child throws a tantrum, no matter how embarrassing it might be. Of course the incident ended with hugs from S and apology to his brother, a short nap from both kids and us all having a great time in the tower. I was really nervous to go all the way to the top. Heights are not my friend, but we had a wonderful time, and Gardner and I even enjoyed a quick champagne toast at the top. It was definitely worth the wait, and views were great. It was a clear gorgeous day. So glad I braved my fear and went for it.

I know these posts are often very long winded and  jump around quite a bit. I have much less time to blog than I would like. Between traveling, sightseeing, laundry, shopping, cleaning, taking care of the kids and sleeping, there just isn't much time left. But we are having a great time, tantrums and all. Tomorrow we pick-up the rental care we will have for a week. We are taking a few day trips to cities surrounding Paris. On the agenda first is Reims and the Champagne region. A Votre Sante!
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Versailles

Yesterday we went to Versailles. We all had such a fun amazing day. The forecast said showers (it has been unusually cold and rainy here) but we went anyway. Started with a tour of the Chateau, which is impressive. A bit much for my personal tastes, but if you think about the time it was built during, you can't help but be impressed. (Unless of course you are a three year old, in which case the iPad is far more interesting). S recognized the Hall of Mirrors from a Little Einsteins episode in which they had a Halloween Party there. (Yes, S that's why it's so famous. And no, they only put the party table out on special occasions.) Mid tour we bought each boy a little Napoleon. S's is a plastic figurine riding a horse. E's is a small stuffed version. Might be the best money we ever spent. The kids were in heaven!

The Gardens at Versailles looking up at the Chateau

After lunch in the garden, we walked, and walked, and walked. The fountains were on, and I have to say, considering when they were designed, and considering that all the water for them had to be rerouted from miles away, they are impressive. Honestly they are pretty impressive even by today's standards. We walked to the Hamlet, an area on the far side of the property which Marie Antoinette built as a play village for herself. It is so gorgeous! It had a real dairy, real vegetable gardens, a whole little pretend town, which she had real people run and then she would go down dress in a white cotton gown and straw hat and pretend to be a peasant. It's good to be the queen (until the beheading of course). But I have to admit, I LOVED the hamlet and if I am ever to rule a country I will construct one immediately for my own. It's like the best doll house ever. S loved our walk and the Hamlet area. He ran all around, looked at the farm animals, there were many, feed the giant fish in the pond. We ended the day with a look at the orangerie and the grand finale fountain show. The rain held-off, literally until the minute we were leaving. It was such a fantastic day, we all had such a great time and got so much out of the experience.

The Hamlet

We followed-up today with a quick trip to the Conciergerie, the building where prisoners were held while they waited for the guillotine. Marie Antoinette spent two years here while she waited her turn. Now they have a little chapel here dedicated to her memory and a room of remembrance for all of the others. It's shocking how being at a place where something happened gives a person such a deeper understanding of the event, the person, the time. I always thought of Marie Antoinette as spoiled and selfish, and she was. But she was also a little girl who was given way to much power, she was strong, she had a lot of personality. I have come away from learning more, liking her a lot.

We also saw Saint Chappelle today (it's right next door to the Conciergerie). Built to house the crown of thorns by Louise IX, it is breathtaking. The upper chapel is two-stories of stain glass all the way around the room. When we walked up, I was holding S, and he looked at me and said "This is really cool!". Hooray! We have succeeded in helping our child appreciate culture. At least on the level a three year old can. Looking at him and seeing the understanding that we are someplace special, someplace unique in the world, reminded me again why we dragged our children to France, and how much they are learning and growing here with us.

S has learned a ton while here. On our first day we bought a children's book of the monuments of Paris. The night before we visit one, Gardner reads about it to the kids and they look at the pictures. After the visit that night they re-read. It's really sinking-in. S knows almost all of the famous monuments by name. Tonight he and Gardner were looking at pictures, and one of the Arc de Triumph came-up. Gardner asked him, what it was called, and S answered. Then he surprised us both by saying, "And do you know who built it?.....Napoleon."

Tomorrow we are headed out for a 2 night trip in the Dordogne. I am really excited! A bit off your typical tourist route, and a little more rustic, the kids will love it.

It Takes a Village...

The last few days have been great and Gardner and I have really felt like we are rocking it. We know how to order coffee, we have learned the pertinent bus routes and how to board with the strollers. The kids have been great, we have all been sleeping well and just generally feeling like a part of Paris. But as soon as you feel like you have it all figured out, something new comes up and reminds us, we are in fact in a foreign land, and we don't know all of the "rules".

One thing that has been a surprise for us, is that attitude the french have about children. As Americans, we take our kids everywhere. The French by contrast take their children nowhere. That is of course a gross over-generalization on both accounts. This was all to clear the other night when we went out to dinner. It was a little late. (We sat down at 7pm - early by French standards). When we arrived at our selected restaurant, housed in the oldest still standing home in Paris (built in 1400), there where no other dinners. Perfect, we though, no one to disturb. However as we schelpped in our two strollers and 5,000 bags from the day and got settled, we really looked around and noticed white table cloths and a candlelight and realized we might be in a bit over our heads, or at least our children's heads. Before we had ordered the restaurant had filled. Our children are generally very good in a restaurant, but I was nervous. I hate the idea of my rowdy kids interrupting someone else. S was pretty good. Didn't touch a bite of his food. In fact he screamed "I DON'T LIKE IT!" at a particularly quite moment. But all in all he played the iPad quietly. E of the other hand was not having it. He would not stay in his seat, threw everything he touched on the floor and was generally fussy. And the meal took forever. So long that by the end, Gardner and I were wondering if the waitstaff was trying to intentionally torture us. We had a dialog made-up about how they were so annoyed that we had dared bring our children to their semi-fancy restaurant. Then as we were leaving Gardner accidentally dropped the stroller down the stairs spilling everything out. How embarrassing. Then our waiter, who rushed to help him clean, turned to him, and said "I hope we have done everything we could to make your evening pleasant. I can see how hard it is to enjoy yourself with children. We tired to give you as much time as possible". So that's why is took like an hour to get our plat (main dish)! We assumed they were being jerks, and they were trying to allow us extra time, and not rush us.

Another thing that has happened on many, many occasion is people helping us with our stroller down the stairs.  I mean, all the time. Random strangers will stop and just pick up the bottom and help us carry it. It really takes a village, that is the attitude. Yesterday a shop keeper gave our boys each a little Eiffel Tower key chain. Just to be nice. Made the kids day! They spent all day playing with and trading back and forth their little key chains.

In an unsettling trend, many people have tried to pick S up. I would never, ever pick-up a child I didn't know with out asking the parents permission. But several times we have been struggling down a staircase caring a stroller while holding the baby and trying to hold S's hand, and someone just comes by and picks him up. The first time it happened was at the Louvre. A man was helping Gardner carry a stroller down the stairs and I was holding E and trying to get S to walk while holding my free hand and this woman just came by and picked S up! No, No, No I was yelling while chasing her down the stairs. She gave me a strange look, put him down said something in German and walked away. She was the wife of the man helping Gardner. It happens a lot. It makes me uncomfortable. I realize that people are just trying to help, but I am not comfortable with a stranger carrying my baby (even if is is 3) away from me. Today a man on the Metro did it. I let him, although I never let go of his hand the whole way down the stairs.

There are differences here. The culture goes beyond the language, the currency, the food. It is deeper. It's the way they raise their children. The "it takes a village" mindset. I like it. I'm working on getting used to it. I hope when I come home, I will be a person who offers to help more, and avoids strangers less. If we hadn't brought our children to France, these are things we never would have learned. We are learning everyday.

The Perfect Day in Paris

I can't tell you how lucky I feel today. It's May 1st, Labor Day here in France and it's a major holiday. Almost everything is closed, people spend the day with their families and then celebrate in the city. We just listened to the fireworks from our apartment, although from here we can't quite see them.

Because all of  the museums were closed today, we were at a bit of a loss at what we should do. We woke to a crystal clear blue sky, packed a picnic and headed (all the way across Paris) to a fabulous park. Buttes Chau Mont is on the edge of Paris in the 20th district. It used to be a stone quarry. Now it's a haven. Steep hills covered in grass, beautiful flowers, tall trees and a river that runs through the bottom. We ate on the lawn. Cheese, salami, a baguette from the little corner shop, apples, and pretzels. After lunch S and E played out there energy on the playground. We walked to the vista, and them through the park down the the river. Just soaking up the sun and the people. It was such an amazing day to be there. The park was packed with Parisians, all just out having a day with their families. We have found the children of Paris. Hooray! Love being not the only mom in sight. Everyone was so pleasant and joyful and the mood was contagious.

We left the park and got a quick cafe-crem and rode the bus to the Pere Lachaise Cemetery. It is huge and so beautiful. I think it's interesting you can rent space here, in 10 year terms. Then if your decedents don't pay your rent when the bill comes due they move you out to free up the space. We saw the resting places for Chopin, Jim Morrison, and Oscar Wilde. Best of all the kids napped the entire time and woke happy and refreshed. We caught the bus back to the 4th (I know the bus is not as glamours as the Metro, but they are clean, efficient, easy to find and most importantly when you have a stroller or two - stair free).

We had dinner outside at a little cafe, and then walked a while by the Hotel de Ville and Notre Dame. The city by dusk was buzzing with people all celebrating. Much like the feeling you get on the 4th of July.



Happy, worn-out kids showered and right to bed. We didn't see any major tourist sights, or eat in any fancy restaurants but for our family it was a perfect Parisian day.

Tough Times in Provance

This morning Gardner was checking his email and looking at the pictures I have posted on my facebook and he joked "Wow, from these pictures it looks like we are actually having a good time". We both laughed, because of course we are having an amazing time here in France. However, we have definitely had some rough moments too. I thought since I'm always talking about the great experiences, I might tell you a few less than wonderful ones, memories all the same. Please feel free to laugh at us. I hope these stories are ones that will get funnier with time.

So this past weekend in Provance was interesting. On Saturday we had picked out this restaurant in a travel book that sounded great. It had a nice view of Provance, it's way up in the hills, in a cute tiny town, just like you see in the movies. Supposedly casual with excellent food. So we drove out there after visiting a complete Roman amphitheater in Neimes. We were all ready for lunch. So we hiked-up the hill. Each Gardner and I pushed a stroller up this super street cobblestone hill. It took us 45 minutes to reach the restaurant, only to find it closed! We searched the town and can't find anything open. So back into the car we go. Now it's 1:30 and we are all really hungry. We drive on to the next little village. Calling restaurants along the way. They all stop lunch service at 1:30. We are starting to panic because the kids are all wound up with hunger and we are really feeling it to after our little workout. We finally found a little outdoor place willing to take us. The food was actually good. Crisis adverted.

On Sunday after a great morning watching S climb around a huge medieval castle in Les Baux we went to Avignon to see the old Papal Palace and the famous bridge. Now in France they have a nursery rhythm about dancing on this bridge (part of it's claim to fame is that is only spans haft the river). So after a disastrous tour of the Papal Palace, during which S threw a non-stop tantrum complete with screaming on the floor and constantly trying to run away, and a quick snack for S (clearly he needed it). We had just enough time before our train to go out and dance or at least stand on the bridge. This is something Gardner was really looking forward to. So he looks in our Rick Steve guide, which is usually good for these things and we head up, yet another steep hill. Once at the top we realize we are at the bridge overlook and the bridge it's self is actually down way below. Crap. Ok, Rick says to head through the park, then down 3 flights of stairs so we can walk along the river. Ok. I'm starting to get worried about getting to the train station on time. It's hot, Gardner is getting annoyed that we are clearly in the wrong place, we start charging down the hill, and near the bottom, my ankle rolls, and I fall. My ankle really hurts random people come over to see if I'm ok. I start crying. So embarrassing. Then I learn that I have ripped my jeans in the knee. Insult to injury. I only have a few pairs of pants with me on the trip and now one is ruined. Thankfully my ankle is ok. A little sprained and swollen, but a couple days later it is feeling better. We finally find the entrance to the bridge and at this point everyone is mad, tired, hot, and hungry and we are late to leave for the train. Plus diapers still had to be changed, baby still needed to nurse. So we left never getting to dance on the bridge of Avignon. A reason to go back to Provance.

There have been countless tantrums, including one today where S threw himself face down on the floor of the dirty grimy Metro station because he wanted to ride the escalator up by himself and the rule is that you have to hold hands with mommy or daddy. Of course there was a huge mass of people all trying to get on to witness the crazy. Gardner had to get him off the floor kicking and screaming the whole way up, while French business people rolled there eyes in manner that suggests that their child would never behave that way. But that is kids for you. This tantrum was sort of out of the blue, but usually when he really acts out it's because he is over-tired or hungry, or God help us, both. So we generally try to keep him rested (as much as possible) and well-fed.

E decided out of nowhere last week that he no longer eats baby food purees. This after we tracked down a Super Marche out of town and imported an entire suitcase full of baby food back to our apartment. Finger foods for a 10 month old baby at home can be a challenge, but on the go while traveling are a real pain in the butt. So we are managing. It actually took me several days to figure out why the was refusing to eat. Was he sick? Teething? Just not hungry? So the only thing he ate for three days was crackers, breast milk, and apple sauce out of those squeeze packets. We are figuring it out though, tonight he had pasta cut into small pieces, chucks of cheese, and peas. Happy baby.

Things are great, but you still have to parent, even when on vacation on France. I am comforted remembering that I would be dealing with a lot of the same problems at home in California. And during the hard times I try and force myself to remember that we chose this, and that I really would rather change diapers, even the messy, gross ones here in France.

Disney and Provance

We are in Provence. The last post we were getting ready to go to Disneyland. I'll start there. Disney Paris was great. We only visited the Magic Kingdom park. It is very similar to California's Magic Kingdom, although it has a few less rides, no Toon Town or Citter Country and a crazy big Adventure Land. S had no idea where we were going and didn't figure it out until we got inside the park. He was all smiles ear to ear all day. The weather forecast called for sun with a few light sprinkles. It was in actuality scattered downpours. We got on Small World (first ride of the day) with the sun shining and got off to sheets of rain. Thankfully the rain cover on E's stroller was up! So he had a dry ride, but S's stroller was soaked. They rain however didn't stop us. S could have cared less. We ended-up needing to buy him rain boots and dry socks because his feet were so soaked. Gardner and I used fast pass and baby swap to ride Space Mountain. Since I have been pregnant a lot lately, it was my first roller coaster in years. The Space Mountain was really awesome! Way more fun than the ride in California. Small World was good, but not as long as in CA. Sebastian loved the Captain Hook Pirate Ship and the Alica and Wonderland Walk through experience. The day was capped-off by an excellent Disney show similar to World of Color, only better, with lights and projection and fireworks. The projection is on fountains (like World of Color) but also on the Sleeping Beauty Castle. They turned it into all kinds of things, a clock, a rocket ship, etc. And the show had a cute story-line that mixed French and English and focused on the Disney stories set in France. Excellent day.

The next day we spent mostly laying around the apartment recovering. I packed for Provence while the kids played with their new Disney toys. In the late afternoon we went to tour the Opera House. Gorgeous!! We also got an early dinner out, and since the weather was really nice walked back to our apartment all the way through Paris. We walked from the 9^th to the 5^th. It was lovely.

The next morning we got up super early (4:45AM) to catch a 7AM train to Provence It's a nice change of pace here. Rural. In Paris everything is manicured perfectly. Here it is natural. And more gritty. Gardner and I have both remarked that in some ways it feels more like Italy. Makes sense as we are pretty close. I have come to realize one essential truth about traveling with young children, and that is that getting to the place is a hassle. Werther you are flying or taking the train. The kids are actually doing great, but hauling around all their crap really sucks!!! They need so much and they can't carry any of it themselves. In fact E needs to be carried too! But once you get to the place you are going you are so glad you came.

So yesterday after arriving we picked up our rental car and drove to the Ponte du Gard. It is amazing! You can walk right up to it and they have built a bridge that touches it so you can cross the river. S had a great time exploring and filling his pockets with rocks (a new hobby). We all enjoyed a nice lunch at a great resturant overlooking it. On the way to our hotel we stopped in Neimes. More ancient Roman Ruins and some Mc Dough (Mc Donald's) for dinner. Our hotel is nice. It's in a little town called Tearason. It feels like the country. Our room is actually like a small suite which is great because the kids have there own room! Today we went to Arles, which was actually kind of a disappointment. Yes the sites were great, some more Roman ruins, including a fantastic Colosseum, and a beautiful Romanesque Church. But it was hard to imagine the town that inspired Van Gogh (This is where he lived and painted many of his most famous works). The town is gritty and modern. It has a blue collar and yet touristy feel. I definitely preferred our afternoon visit to St. Remy. There we saw the very peaceful (and still functioning) mental hospital where Van Gogh lived and painted for over two years. The ultra famous Starry Night...yep, painted while he was a patient there In fact he painted over 200 painting while admitted. I can see why. The hospital is in a beautiful area. Peaceful and serene. We had dinner at a great place, the food was delicious and they even had a changing table! A big find in France. The resturant owners were great and loved playing with E. Both kids were well behaved and we managed to get through 3 entire courses. Yum. Alsp the town had great shopping. Lots of cute places. Made me miss my Mom and sister. Gardner and the kids are great for lots of things, but shopping is not one of them. No offense boys. :)

Provence is so much warmer than Paris. It's maybe 75, and a bit humid. A nice change after freezing the last few weeks. The sun is so super bright here. Even with sunglasses on the colors are so vibrant. I imagine it gets very hot here in the summer, and I am glad, especially since we have the kids, it's not July. So all in all we are all having a great time. We are also all tired. We play hard, we sleep hard. Gardner and I are constantly working to find a balance between sightseeing and not over-doing it. I think we are succeeding more than not. S talks about home a lot. He talks about his friends and his room, and his Grandparents, and his Aunt Katie. He doesn't seem sad or homesick per say, just wants to make sure they are all still there waiting for him. I am missing my family and friends too, but then I remember that 7 weeks is just a blink of time in a whole lifetime and the trip is already flying by.  

7 Everyday Things That Are Different In Paris

So we have officially completed our first week here. We are all loving it. There are so many awesome things about Paris! There are also, of course a lot of differences from my normal suburban lifestyle. Besides the language, currency, and temperature, there are a few things have stuck out in my early impression as unique to Paris and/or Europe in general.


7 Everyday Things That Are Different In Paris

1. Parisians LOVE their dogs. I know many people are fond of their pets and treat them like a member of the family but Parisians take it to a new level. These dogs are all full-breads, (no mutts in Paris) incredibly well groomed, with fancy leashes and collars, and their owners take them everywhere. It is not at all unusual to see a dog inside a restaurant, supermarket, bank or clothing store. Bringing your kids into the Brasserie (casual restaurant) might get you a sideways look and a sigh from the waiter, but your dog is perfectly welcome. An usual thing to adjust to as you sit eating a $25 plate of food while at the table next to you Fido scratches and sniffs. Although I do have to admit, Parisians also seems to have the best behaved dogs on the planet. Even the dogs are sophisticated here.

2. You can drink anywhere! It's an odd sensation for your typical California girl (who is used to alcohol being served only under lock and key and after 45 ID checks) to see someone wondering through the Louvre drinking a Heineken. The little street vendors sell hot dogs, chips, crepes and wine. Yesterday people at the table next to use ordered a second beer after their meal and took them to go. The relaxed attitude around alcohol doesn't seem to lead to drunken parties in the streets. In fact the attitude surrounding alcohol is the opposite. It's really no big deal. Just another small thing to be enjoyed and to enhance your life.

3. People really do dress better here. French people in general really do dress in a very sophisticated manor. And skinny jeans are all the rage, for both men and women.The men manage to look sophisticated and elegant (and would probably look too feminine in the US) but here they fit right in next to their elegant and put together with out trying-to-hard counterparts. They wear skinny jeans and straight leg pants with a tapered ankle. And not like Americans wear skinny leg pants. They do where them with boots and heals, but also with flats, tennis shoes, low flat boots, sandals. The only boot cut pants are on the tourists. Of course this is the only cut I brought, but that's ok my butt is too big for skinny jeans anyways. Which brings me to my next line item...

4. French people are thin. Believe it or not, I don't think I have seen even one overweight french person yet. Ok, I'm sure they do exist, but by and large the country has a tight watch on their collective waistline. And it makes you wonder. How to they do it. Joggers are rare to see. We have walked all over, including our neighborhood which is not a touristy place, and I have yet to see even one gym. Plus all of the food here is full fat. They do not skimp on pastries, or rich butter or cheese, or wine, or anything else they want to eat. I suppose the secret is a combination of factors. They walk a lot. Portions are smaller. And almost everything, even in the grocery stores is fresh. Not a lot of trans fats. Hey, maybe I'll even loose weight while I'm here. Maybe? :) A girl can hope....more cheese please.

5. People everywhere love a cute baby. This is not by any means a baby-friendly city. When I say that I don't mean it in a negative way. It's just like any other big city really. There are lots of stairs and not many elevators or ramps. Not great for strollers. Most restaurants and cafes do not have high chairs or changing tables. But the Parisians we have encountered have generally been incredibly helpful in trying to help us make it work. Several random strangers have helped us carry strollers down the metro steps, or shuffled things so we could fit in a cafe. And E is enjoying an abundance of attention. He is gleeful as he rides down the street being smiled at and waved to by practically everyone. Even our surly french waiter stopped and baby-talked to him to day when he thought I wasn't looking.


6. People will reprimand your children.  I didn't know this before we came to France, but apparently here it is perfectly appropriate to discipline someone else's child. Adults have no problem speaking sternly to your child and telling them, for example, to sit down and shut their mouths. In France children should be seen and not heard. It is a bit of a shock to typical a "I want to nurture their spirit" type of California mom to have another adult speak like that to my kid. It is very easy to get defensive. However I am trying to remember that they mean no harm, and are probably trying to help. And I just think, "If they judge me well I'll never see them again anyway." Then I just look the other way while S helps himself to a third sample of their cheese.

7. People will touch your baby! Like everyone, all the time. Bus boys, and store clerks and little old ladies on the bus. They have no issue at all with patting E's head or tickling him, or what always makes me cringe, touching his hands - which of course promptly go right back in the mouth. I am trying to get over my American "don't touch my baby" issues. But it is quite a change.

For those keeping score at home, even though it has been rainy and cold we are seeing a lot. Today we climed to the top of Sacre Coeur. It was too high for me and having S up there with the slippery floors and low rails made me insaenly nervous. But it was still a cool view and a great accomplishment. We are planning to go to Disney tomorrow (don't tell S it's a suprise). We orginally had it scheduled for later in the month, but the day we were planning is a national holiday and it's sure to be busy. Hoping for good weather and a super fun day for the kids.

Sunday in Paris

Well, we have been in Paris for a week now, and we feel like we are really settling in and getting used to the rhythm of the city.We have  The kids are also adjusting, and very importantly they, and we, are sleeping so much better. We are all having a great time, exploring the city! Paris is really amazing. Beautiful, and so full of life and character.

Today we all slept in after getting in late from the train ride home. After a small snack for the kids we bundled-up and ventured out ready for a coffee and hungry for a Pain au Chocolat to discover that everything in Paris is closed on Sunday. :(  Ok, not EVERYTHING, but almost all stores, cafes, etc are closed. Only activities and restaurants in the touristy areas are open. Since we are not staying in a particularly touristy area, we had to seek out some breakfast. After grabbing a quick bite from a little cafe across from San Germain du Pres (the oldest church in Paris built in like 500), we walked to the Luxembourg Gardens. The clouds were threatening rain, and S was hopped-up on jelly from his breakfast crepe. It was a great place for him to run out some energy. We rented him a little sail boat and since it was so windy it sailed all over the fountain. He had such a great time! (There was a major tantrum at the end of the morning but who wants to harp on the details of him screaming at the top of his lungs like he was being kidnapped for about 7 blocks?)

G and S launching their sailboat

We went back to the apartment for lunch just as the sprinkles started. After we all refueled we took the bus to the Lourve (since we bought season passes we can skip the whole line and walk right in). This trip we saw the large canvas rooms and the grand gallery. It was a really good trip. The kids were pretty engaged. S was excited to see "her" and E flirted with everyone he saw. S was underwhelmed by "her" the Mona Lisa. But I was actually impressed. I have always heard she wasn't very exciting so my expectations were low. The crowd surrounding her was insane, so we didn't stay to long in that room. After a while we let S zone out and play on his little video game, and G and I were able to take in a few full hours of art! We ended the day at the Hard Rock. I have been feeling just a touch homesickness so a dinner of nachos, margaritas, and rock n' roll really made me feel comfortable and at ease.

In front of the Lourve 

More sightseeing in the city tomorrow, and I am really feeling good about our ability to keep the kids happy and engaged while G and I are also able to enjoy all of the interesting things France has to offer.

Visiting Gardner's French Family

We have just returned from a overnight trip to Pornichet, which is on the coast in Brittany, and a visit with Gardner's french family (The Bossy's). It was so lovely to get out of the busy big city and see how real french people as opposed to how Parisians live.

A cute picture of my boys on the train

I'll admit, I didn't really want to go. The two days before were busy and stressful. S was acting like a manic, and we had been going what felt like non-stop. The kids were making everything from riding the metro (damn stairs) to eating out (S wouldn't eat anything other than sugar and I the only baby food I can find is applesauce) a headache. In two days we had seen the Arc de Triomphe, walked all the way the down the Champs Elysees to the Lourve, walked around a very small and not so exciting wing of the Lourve, seen the Eiffle Tower, visited the Musee D'Orassy, walked along the Seine, visited the flower market, and grocery shopped 3 times. In addition I had been locked in the kitchen (the lock somehow jammed and the apartment owner had to come rescue me) cleaned an infinite amount of bedsheets after in the middle of the night S decided he would take off his pull-up and wear underwear, only to end-up peeing all over his bed, the sheets, duvet, everything. Plus of course I had to wash laundry, pack for the overnight away, etc. I was in such a cranky mood, still dealing with children fighting sleeping, and constantly determined to wake one another in the night that I was asking myself (and Gardner) "Why on earth did we do this?!". Truthfully it is really difficult, traveling with young children. They have a lot of needs and they don't care if you are standing in front of a priceless piece of artwork in a room of people who have waited their lives to see it. If they are tired, or bored, or hungry they will wreak havoc. So by the end of Thursday night I was in no mood to pack and get ready to leave early in the morning. But we had already planned to go, bought the train pass, reserved the hotel. So I sucked-it up and got it all together. I am so glad I did.

We had a wonderful time in Pornichet. Yes the kids were still a handful, but it was so relaxing looking at the Ocean. Gardner's family that we went to visit include Herve and Linda (the parents) and Celine and Donatien (the college age "kids"). Herve, Celine and Donatien all speak decent English, but Linda speaks about as much English as I do French, which is to say not much at all. I was nervous, not knowing at all what to expect, but they were all as welcoming and friendly as could be. And even though the majority of the conversation was in French, I managed to follow along and add my input in English which the others translated for me.

When we arrived by train, after checking in at the hotel, we went to their house for dinner. They cooked us the most amazing French dinner! I would have expected beautifully plated food like this in a fancy restaurant. We had a Champagne aperitif with cheese coquette puff pastry things, an entree (appetizer) which was individual seafood casoulettes so good I could have eaten a bucket full. It was all I could do not the lick the terrine. The main was pork tenderloin with a light delicious curry sauce and ratatouille. For dessert a homemade rum cake. YUM. Of course there was wine, and coffee and a great time was had by all. (They even made a special noodles and ham dinner for S and he was happy to color on the Ipad while the adults ate).

Eating lunch

Walk by the beach

S and I

The next morning, we met the family at our hotel and walked to the local market, which was really fun! The market is beautiful and vibrant with amazing produce, super fresh fish, fresh bread, flowers and a variety of charcuterie. Linda seemed to know everyone and seemed very proud as she pushed my stroller around explaining to all of her friends that we were her American family in France for a visit. She and I entertained each other by teaching one another the various names for things at the market. Lunch back at the house was four-courses of bliss. We had an array of shellfish, including Langoustine, two types of shrimp, oysters and homemade mayonnaise. The second course was sea bass and potatoes with a white buerre blanc sauce that was unbelievability good. Then a cheese and salad course, followed by espresso and eclairs. O.M.G. I wish we were staying here for 7 weeks! Not only is the Bossy family super friendly they can really cook! After lunch we enjoyed a pleasant walk to the beach, right down the road from their house, and then we had to get in the car and drive to Nantes to catch the train back to Paris.

I realize that the majority of my description about our time in Pornichet is focused on the food, but in France that really is the center of the social world. Both Herve and Linda made sure to tell me several times who cooked which pieces of the meal, and I think I accidentally offended when I offered to help in the kitchen. (Gardner told me later that they view it as me stating that they are not capable on their own. But then he said they likely though it was a cute American gesture. I hope so.) Oh and while in the country we visited a Super Mache and stocked up on baby food, so Everett will have a much more healthy variety  in the coming weeks, in case you were concerned.

Was the night out of Paris a lot of work? Yes. We had to pack, unpack, adjust the kids in new beds, figure out the train system, etc. But it was SO worth it and I have returned, completely de-stressed, re-energized and excited to see what else we can see.

Trying to teach S to Squat

What is the deal with the squat toilets?! Seriously Europe! Get with it. France does so many things well. The food is delicious, the clothing is beautiful, the city is well-designed and gorgeous, and the public transportation is fast efficient, clean and inexpensive. But what is with the seat-less toilets?! For those of you who don't know what a squat toilet is, it's a toilet with the seat removed. In Italy we encountered squat toilets that were actually flush with the floor. The ones we have found here are just like regular toilets, with the seat removed.

Now let me tell you. Squat toilets are a hassle. But never a big pain in the butt then when you are dealing with a potty training toddler. S has been doing so well potty training. He basically refuses to were anything but underwear now, and rarely has accidents, but he in true 3 year old form, never wants to go to the bathroom. Every trip to the potty requires negation on our part. These squat toilets are no help to the situation that unfolds as I try to sweet talk my child out of his pants and onto the potty. Between those and the auto-flushers (which S is terrified of) I have spent a truly remarkable amount of time bribing my child to pee.

But the worst offense of the squat toilet, which really got me today, was a PAID for squatter.This one had holes where the seat used to be - it had been intentionally removed! Sebastian and I paid our .80 euro each waited about 10 minutes in line to get to a SQUAT toilet! Are you kidding? And this is at a Mc Donald's no less. Not very family friendly. Of course they didn't have a changing table either, so poor Everett had to be changed in his stroller in the corner of the restaurant. Not very polite, but a mom's gotta do what she's gotta do.

In other news we had an amazing day, which ended with S dancing in the rain in front of a sparking Eiffel Tower, a little moment in time I hope I remember forever. I'll tell you all about it later.

The Flight and Day 1

Phew! We finally made it! The planes flights went pretty well, all things considered. S was really perfectly behaved and so much fun to be with. He was so excited to be going on a plane. The first flight was a short hop on a tiny commuter jet to LAX. As the plane took off he shouted, at the top of his lungs, "Up, up, up! We are FLYING!". Pure joy. It was so cute. E had a tougher time. He was hot and his little ears hurt. So did everyone's by the time we landed.

E waiting to board our first flight

The long haul flight was better. S napped then watched 3 entire movies, then napped again. Couldn't have been easier. E was over the whole experience by then and just wanted to sleep- in my arms. So I ended-up holding him for about 95% of the flight. (Guess we could have skipped buying him a ticket after all.)

Finally about 24 hours after leaving our house we arrive at the door step of our apartment building. We unload our kids the car seats, the strollers, 4 suitcases, 2 carry-on size bags, a diaper bag, and S's little backpack and then we realize neither Gardner nor I remember the door code. S#!T. Now what. We have no access to Internet, no where else to go, not to mention no way yo move all of our stuff and kids. We stand there for about  10 minutes, just sort of hoping an answer would appear. Then, luckily the door opens. The owner of the apartment's daughter is standing there. They happened to look out window and see us. Thank God. We head up. The elevator is small. My stroller won't fit unless it is folded. It takes 5 trips to bring everything up. I have officially over-packed. But, the apartment is amazing! Looks just like the pictures.  After unpacking and heading to the local market for a few supplies, we are all ready for bed.  All except E. He screamed for 2 hours straight. Didn't matter if he was being rocked, nursed, left alone in bed. We gave him some Tylenol, to help calm him down. Nothing worked, except what he wanted, which was to sleep with me. So finally we gave in and let him sleep in our bed. Other than a few quick visits from Sebastian and a midnight feeding of butternut squash to E the night went really well, and we woke-up feeling refreshed.

On our first day of sightseeing, we had already decided to visit Ile de la Cite. We planned to see where the city began, the very center. The morning was overcast and very cold and windy. We grabbed croissants and coffee and took the metro (kind of a hassle with 2 strollers, all those steps) over to Notre Dame. It's amazing. We got there right at opening, so there weren't too many people yet. (Walked by a few hours later and the line stretched all the way through the square. The church is absolutely beautiful. I have always had a fondness for Gothic cathedrals, and Notre Dame in Paris is arguably the most famous in the world. The way the light comes through the windows (even on an overcast day) is beautiful. It makes the walls look like they are sort of glowing. We decided to save the climb to the top of the bell tower for another day.

The wind and rain picked up. We were unprepared for that kind of weather. Bummer that's the forecast for the next ten days. But I think we will do better bringing only one stroller for the boys to share with the ergo baby carrier. For the rest of the day we got lunch, saw the Archaeological Crypt (the ancient Gallo-Roman foundations of Paris), took a rest and walked around Bon Marche. Bon Marche is a huge, very cool, and very expensive department store that also has a whole gourmet grocery store attached. Tonight E was the easier one to get to sleep. (Both kids have been napping on and off all day). S is still up and listening to books on tape. It's 10:30PM. Wish he would fall asleep so I could too.

All in all, so far we are having a good time. Looking forward to everyone fully adjusting from the time-change and hoping the weather improves. Bonne Nuit.

Why travel with your kids?

A little over 2 years ago, when we decided to take a "big trip" to France, G was in the midst of working a demanding job and working through a demanding MBA program in the evenings. He was exhausted all of the time. So I suggested a big vacation when he finished. Something to really look forward to. A reward. It was quickly decided that we wanted to go to Paris. And so the dream began. For the past two years, when we haven't been busy working, taking care of the house, or having another baby we have been talking, planning,and preparing for our trip to France. And while we leave in just 13 short days, I still sort of can't believe we are ACTUALLY going.

Whenever I tell people about our upcoming trip, the thing that everyone seems to talk about is the fact that we are bringing our children. Some are shocked, some impressed, and almost everyone expresses sympathy for the very long plane ride. There have been countless web posts about all the great benefits that come from traveling with your children. Reasons to travel with your children include:

- Travel encourages better geographical knowledge and awareness.
- Travel encourages an acceptance and appreciation for other cultures
- Travel encourages children to become more adaptable
- Traveling as a family is a great bonding experience and creates lasting memories
- Children's know what they live. If you travel often they will be good travelers.
- Children (especially really young ones) are super cheep, if not free to bring along.

And there are of course many more reasons that traveling and seeing the world as a family is awesome. However, what I have heard from so many people are things like:

- Why bother taking your kids? They'll never remember it.
- They have so much gear to drag along.
- You'll miss so much dealing with your kids sleep schedules, diaper changes, etc.

I completely understand comments like this. Travel with young children, I image will be quite a bit different that when G and I rented a car and drove all over Italy for a few weeks the year before S was born. However, for all the great reasons to travel with your children, what it really came down to was "I'd rather change diapers in Paris." I will be rocking a baby to sleep, and begging a toddler to please try using the potty, and cleaning baby food off my blouse, anyway and well I would rather do it in Paris.

So wish us luck, diapers and all we will be heading to Europe in 2 short weeks for what I'm sure will be a fun, memorable, crazy, exhausting, amazing trip.